Here’s your choice: point at the 12 o’clock mark.
#Can you trace a pdf in electric quilt 7 registration#
I use really teeny stitches and stitch length, putting way more stitches in there than I do for regular appliqué, as it stabilizes the whole block and anchors the center.Īs usual for these blocks, cut a 14 1/2″ square, fold it into fourths and press lightly so the creases can serve as registration marks for centering your circle. I like to appliqué on my center circle as I think it is a cleaner business (shown here from the back). In my new project, I am now working with the cardstock versions of the papers for the Millefiore quilt and I’m sure the answer is the same, but they do seem to stick more to the rougher surface of the cardstock, with no papers trying to escape, like mine are, above. Sliding a seam ripper or a stiletto point between the fabric and the paper can also help loosen stubborn spots. Here you can see they are starting to pop off already. Time for the $64,000 question: can you get the glued papers off the circle block? Yes. The best sight in EPP-land: all the papers on the pieces, from the back. The above photographs show the steps in how I sewed this together: pieces, then small sections, moving along to the larger sections.Īh. Every once in a while a seam allowance would work itself loose from the paper but I treated it like an envelope: I licked the paper and stuck back the seam allowance. Sometimes there is some interesting bends that go on while working. Then I added two blue sections to that one, then started joining them all together.
I first sewed the gold/yellow together, then added the blue diamondish-square (I labeled it as a square, but it is slightly wonky). With the glue stick, I wasn’t too worried about re-doing any pieces as it was so quick and easy. I laid out all the pieces and I liked what I saw. (And it saves time and energy and my hands!) It was easier to keep the pieces centered (sometimes I put a dot of glue on the piece before putting it down, but not always) and I love how they look. Then I just smoothed the seam allowance up over the glue.
I’d read that it was not a good idea to go all the way to the edge of the paper when glueing, that it was better to leave a small bit unglued.
I had purchased the narrow glue stick for the The New Hexagon Millefiore Quilt Along and thought it was time to learn a few new tricks. I tried a new-to-me technique this time: glueing down the seam allowances. But if you need your yellow on one side and your gold on the other and you don’t want to have to figure it out, then put the printed side down, for that’s how you see it. I sometimes get confused whether the pieces should go printed side up, or printed side down, so my usual recommendation is if they are bi-directional - meaning it doesn’t matter - then it doesn’t matter. I’m not a purist–I don’t need everything to be hand-sewn and doing this step this way will make your circle more accurate and save you a lot of headache. I also used the technique of seaming together my two fabrics, then cutting out the pattern piece, lining up the center lines. or 20-lb) Yes, I am a stationary/paper nerd, too. paper, a bit heavier than the usual copy paper (which can either be 18-lb. Remembering the nightmare of trying to get all those points to fit into the center on a previous block, I added a small circle, and changed the pattern to the one you have now:įor this project, I use 24 lb. I must admit to being a bit nervous about this new process, so I drew up a circle and then tried to fit the pieces into it, making sure that they were all the same size as the other circles.Īnd then I didn’t like how the pattern looked, so I went and redrew it (you have the latest version). Illustrations below are with the OLD version of the pattern, so it may vary from what’s included now. Please remember to set your printer settings to 100% and check the little scale square included on the pattern.
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